The Restaurant with the Eiffel Tower View
How to get to Saint-Cloud from Paris, what the panoramic restaurant actually costs, and why it's one of the best racecourse dining experiences we've had.
If you're in Paris and fancy a day at the races, this one's for you. Saint-Cloud sits just west of the city, entry is next to nothing, and the restaurant overlooking the track puts most British racecourse hospitality to shame on both view and price.
This is part of our ongoing Paddock Preview series where we document real racedays, real costs, and give you honest recommendations. No fluff, just the stuff you actually need to know.
Where It Is
Hippodrome de Saint-Cloud is at 1 Rue du Camp Canadien, 92210 Saint-Cloud. It sits on a plateau at the top of the hill of Saint-Cloud, west of Paris, and the height is the whole point: you look back across the city from the stands.
It's a 2,300-metre turf track and the only exclusively left-handed racecourse in the Paris region. Its big day is the Grand Prix de Saint-Cloud, a Group 1.
Getting There
From central Paris by train — around 17–20 minutes from Saint-Lazare
Take Transilien Line L from Gare Saint-Lazare and get off at Le Val d'Or or Saint-Cloud. Le Val d'Or was opened in 1903 specifically to serve the racecourse, and timetables show direct trains taking around 17 to 19 minutes.
Other public transport
Tram: Line T2 to Les Coteaux
Bus: the 244 from Porte Maillot to the Val d'Or stop, or the 467 from Porte de Saint-Cloud
By car or Uber — what we did
We took an Uber from Boulogne-Billancourt, which is just across the Seine from Saint-Cloud. It's only a few kilometres, so allow roughly 10 to 15 minutes depending on traffic.
From Paris itself, the official directions are to come via the Seine quays, the Bois de Boulogne or the Périphérique, cross the Pont de Suresnes, take Boulevard Henri Sellier, and carry straight on to Rue du Camp Canadien. If you're in a taxi, just put "Hippodrome de Saint-Cloud" in the app.
Getting In
€5 entry
That's it. Five euros gets you into the racecourse, and you don't pay a package price for the restaurant on top. You simply pay for what you order, like any normal restaurant. Compared with what a restaurant table costs at a British track, it's a different world.
The Restaurant
Saint-Cloud's panoramic restaurant is called the Val d'Or, and it serves traditional French food in the heart of the racecourse.
We had a table in the window, right on the winning post. In front of you is the track; beyond it, the Paris skyline with the Eiffel Tower standing out in the middle of it. It's hard to think of a better view from a racecourse dining room anywhere.
The practical side is just as good. A lift takes you straight down to the parade ring and winners' enclosure, so you can see the horses before a race, get back to your table and watch the finish from your seat.
What We Ate
Starter: Duck Foie Gras — €20
A proper French starter to set the tone.
Main: Fillet Steak, Frites and Peppercorn Sauce — €34
Flambéed in cognac. This is the dish to order if you want the full experience without going overboard on price.
Dessert: Cheeseboard — €14
A selection of French cheeses served with bread and butter.
The One That Got Away: Côte de Boeuf — €110
It looked incredible coming out to other tables. It's a sharing dish and nobody wanted to go in on it with me, so that's unfinished business for next time.
If You're Watching the Budget
You don't need to spend big here. There are plenty of mains at around €25, including steak tartare, chicken, salmon gravlax and a plate of the day, and enough range on the menu to suit most requirements.
The Wine
Sancerre — €33 a bottle. Médoc — €39 a bottle.
These prices are ridiculous, in the best way. A bottle of Sancerre for €33 in a racecourse restaurant with a view of the Eiffel Tower would be unthinkable at home. Order accordingly.
What It'll Cost You
Racecourse entry — €5
Starter (duck foie gras) — €20
Main (fillet steak and frites) — €34
Dessert (cheeseboard) — €14
Wine — €33 to €39 a bottle, split between the table
Total per person — €73 before wine
